I decided to take the tram today, instead of the metro ... as it was a lovely day out, and the view is much better!
Cool shot huh?!? Me, at my local tram stop - Namesti Miru (Sq of Peace) ... in the glass of the stop's shelter.
Got to school, and learned we were going to view buildings done in the Baroque Era (early) and learn about the counter-reformation while we were at it. First stop, the Church of Our Lady Victorious in Lesser Quarter ... next to Hradcany and right near my school.
We first went to the Old Town side of Charles Bridge, as that was the site of the famous 1621 execution of the 12 "directors" of the reformation, as well as many other supporters.
WARNING ... gory description follows ...
The men were either beheaded or hung, depending on their status ... as nobles had the privilege of having their heads cut off. The heads of the 12 noblemen 'directors' had their heads stuck on the top of the Charles Bridge tower - - again, the Old Town Sq side ... to make sure all the town folk saw them every time they walked by, to remind them of what happens to heretics.
Their bodies were then drawn and quartered at the 'crossroads of the city' ... and others had their hands cut off to 'purge their treachery' ... it was a bloody bloody day in Old Town Sq that day.
The wood from the executioners stage, drenched in blood mind you, was taken and used as floorboards in building a church - - so the Catholic's could walk across the blood of the dead men who dared to rise up against them.
Good stuff, huh?!?!
OK ... lighter stuff now - - had to throw in that oh-so-pleasant history though!
A view down the nave and into the apse of the Church of Our Lady Victorious. The church was built in the 1620's - and has an unique item within it ... see below.
The Infant Jesus of Prague resides within the Church of Our Lady Victorious. The waxen doll (just under 19 inches tall) was brought to Bohemia in 1628 by noblewoman Polyxena von Lobkowitz - - it was a wedding gift from her mother, Maria Manriquez de Lara of Spain.
Polyxena became quite attached to the Carmelites at the Church of Our Lady Victorious, and presented them with the doll - uttering the seemingly prophetic statement "Venerable Fathers, I bring you my dearest possession. Honor this image and you shall never want." Shortly thereafter, after hearing of the twice daily devotions the novitiates made to the Infant and of their voluntary pauperage, Emperor Ferdinand II sent the Carmelites 2000 Florins as well as a monthly stipend.
In 1631 the Thirty Years War brought invasion by Sweden and the occupation of Prague. The friary was looted by the Lutheran Swedes, and the Infant ended up in a pile of trash behind the altar of the church.
It was found again in 1637, by Father Cyrillus, with its hands broken off - - and placed back on the oratory in the Church. One day while praying, Father Cyrillus claimed to have heard a voice say "Have pity on me, and I will have pity on you. Give me my hands, and I will give you peace. The more you honor me, the more I will bless you."
Since then, the Infant has remained in Prague and drawn many devotees worldwide (thousands each year). Claims of blessings, favors and miraculous healings have been made by many who petitioned before the Infant Jesus. Statuettes of this Infant are inside many Catholic churches around the world, often with the quote of "The more you honor me, the more I will bless you."
This doll is so important, that Pope Benedict XVI actually held the Infant - and changed its clothing as well (yes, people around the world send the baby clothes ... and the Church keeps them and periodically changes his) - during his first visit to Prague in September 2009. There is also an annual Feast of the Infant Jesus of Prague ... he (the Infant that is) has his very own website!
Whew ... what a story! Thanks to Wikipedia and my A+A teacher Chris for this info - - now, check out the Baby Jesus ...
The altar, or oratory I guess, is SUPER ornate. There were people kneeling and praying before it while we were there. I know it is hard to see the Infant itself ...
A close-up of the Pražské Jezulátko.
And now back to our topic of Baroque Era buildings ... like the Church of Our Lady Victorious!
The organ at the Church.
The cool ceiling at the Church.
A lovely stainglass window, see through part of the main altar - at the Church of Our Lady Victorious, in Mala Strana.
From there, we walked over to Valdstejn Palace ... beneath the Prague Castle. Another example of Baroque Era architecture. The Palace is known for its extensive gardens.
Sigh ... lovely lovely gardens at Valdstejn Palace. Note the Prague Castle above the Palace, with St Vitus peaking up on the left.
The Valdstejn Palace is HUGE (over 1100 ft long by over 500 ft wide) ... and the Emperor was NOT best pleased by this upstart nobleman who was trying to one-up his Castle right under his nose! It was built between 1621 and 1626. The Palace now serves as the seat of the Czech Senate, but remains open to the public on the weekends - and the gardens are open weekdays as well.
The Palace consists of a riding hall, the palace building itself, and the extensive gardens ... including an artificial stalactical cave, an aviary, many statues, the fountain/pond and the dominating feature - the salla terrena.
A close-up of the statue in the middle of the pond at Valdstejn. Hmmm ... I have seen quite a few of these very violently themed statues!
And ... there are peacocks! Aaaaannnndddd ... a WHITE one too!!! So gorgeous - - I love the sunlight peaking through the tail feathers.
And another peacock ... so beautiful - but my of my, is their cry awful!
The salla terrena, where they hold concerts and theatre performances. Currently, there is a photo exhibit there - - and a live music event was happening later that day too. That is my A+A class!!
A close-up of the right side of the salla terrena ... gorgeous frescoes in there!
A close-up of the central portion of salla terrena. Stunning artwork!!
This is the artificial stalactical cave, which was used to show birds-of-prey.
A close-up of the cave ... you can see they sculpted FACES in there!! Eerie!
A view into a now barred spiral staircase that leads INSIDE the cave ... where the falconers would tether the birds-of-prey. Cool!
A close-up of the flowers at the base of the cave ... WOW - those blues and violets are just GORGEOUS!
These are the only birds-of-prey left in the aviary ... owls.
A far-shot of the aviary at Valdstejn.
A close-up of the spooky sculpture about the aviary.
One of the super cool statues in the Valdstejn Palace ... and my, isn't THAT a mighty snake those men are wrestling!
And folks, that was my Baroque day in Praha!
I really REALLY enjoyed Valdstejn ... is was gorgeous and serene and quiet and laid-out wonderfully - - and that stalactical cave, whoa! Super super cool!! I actually saw that from up on the Castle's viewing platform with Colleen, and said to her "just WHAT do you think THAT is?" ... and neither of us could come up with a viable idea!
Thanks for joining me ... tune in tomorrow for - - wait for it - - BUDAPEST!!!!
Here is a link to the day's photos on my Picasa page ... What? A Baroque baby? No, really?!?! Yes!!!
the infant of prague!...was a big part of my childhood at st. theresa's!!! i never made the connection. the nuns gave us little prayer cards with a picture of him.
ReplyDeletei found it ironic that his hands were broken off by the lutheran swedes during the 30 years war, just as the noblemen directors of the reformation's hands were lopped off for their treachery against the church!
what a wonderfully weirdly spooky thing the stalactical cave and aviary are! looking on the faces must have been a kind of horror movie for folks back then.
love,
mom
i think there is a statue of the infant of prague in my little church back home.
ReplyDelete